Which term is the height-to-wavelength ratio representing the theoretical maximum steepness in shallow water?

Which term is the height-to-wavelength ratio representing the theoretical maximum steepness in shallow water?

• A. Wave Height
• B. Wave Crest
• C. Wave Steepness
• D. Wave Period

Answer: (C)

Wave steepness is the height-to-wavelength ratio, H/L, and it tells how steep a wave is. As waves shoal in shallow water, their height grows while the wavelength shortens, increasing this ratio until the wave becomes unstable and breaks. So the term that describes that height-to-wavelength ratio and its maximum before breaking is wave steepness. The other options describe either the vertical size of the wave (height), a part of the wave (crest), or the time between waves (period), none of which capture the height-to-wavelength ratio.

Wave steepness is the height-to-wavelength ratio, H/L, and it tells how steep a wave is. As waves shoal in shallow water, their height grows while the wavelength shortens, increasing this ratio until the wave becomes unstable and breaks. So the term that describes that height-to-wavelength ratio and its maximum before breaking is wave steepness. The other options describe either the vertical size of the wave (height), a part of the wave (crest), or the time between waves (period), none of which capture the height-to-wavelength ratio.